Chris Jones
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UK road trip #7 - Welshing Around

9/24/2014

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We left Bath and headed deep into south west Wales. On advice from various sources we aimed first for a place on the Gower Peninsular called Mumbles - yet another fine example of weird-arse town names. Lovely little town - touristy but charming. Then we headed around the peninsular taking in Southgate which the locals claim have the second best cliff view in the UK. Not sure exactly how they know this but, to be fair, it was pretty awesome.
We also ate our fill of blackberries. At this time of year you could possibly survive just on blackberries eaten from roadside bushes but, based on some of the droppings of birds that appear to have taken this option it may play merry havoc with the digestive system.
Our goal was Tenby but along the way we saw amazing countryside, including one area where the road went through a commons area. We found ourselves sharing the space with sheep, cattle and roaming mobs of horses. Quite a strange experience - especially when standing at a lookout, eating lunch, surrounded by horses.
Tenby itself is spectacular - old walled town - great views, perfect weather to see it in - great pubs. Can't believe how much ale I've drunk over here. Loving the stuff. Tenby is an absolute must visit in this part of Wales. Accommodation was Ok, but the room small, and the landlady, garrulous to the point of madness.
Next morning we headed to St David's - which took us about as far west as we were going in the UK. Incredible old cathedral in the city (which is only a city by a historical technicality and is the smallest city in the UK).
Then, on advice from the talkative landlady, we detoured to New Quay, which she told us was Wales's equivalent of the Gold Coast - it was a pretty cool place, but the comparison to the Gold Coast was a tad optimistic. But it was very warm, hot even, and we saw something we simply weren't expecting to spot in the UK - not badgers, not hedgehogs - but something rarer - people wearing bikinis and budgie smugglers!
Then onwards and upwards to Betws-y-Coed, via Harlech Castle. Just in case you weren't aware of it the Welsh weren't even in the room when they were giving out the vowels. Which is Ok, because they've claimed a few consonants to do the job. Made a dog's breakfast of the pronunciations, of course, but you try and get Betws-y-Coed right the first time.
Anyway, Betws, was really beautiful and we stayed at a great B&B.
As charming as Betws was, the drive the next day would be even more stunning. We started with the rather cheekily named Swallow Falls and wound our way up the mountains to the tallest peak in Wales. The day started quite misty which gave the landscape an eerie feel and then as we reached the top of the pass the clouds and mist began to peel back and this stark, rocky, mountainous countryside that climbed sheer up from the side of the road unfolded around us - bathed in sunlight. It was such a stunning sight that we drove down the pass and then drove back up and down again.
We reached Llanberis at the foot of Mt Snowdon and decided against catching the train up it (there was a real crowd and we probably didn't have the time) and on a whim took a side road. By sheer chance this took us to a wonderful old Welsh tea room, complete with fascinating owner, amazing furniture (e.g. A very old family bible in Welsh - as if that would make understanding religion any easier for the English speaking punter), great coffee and cakes, really cool artworks and even a generous helpful guest (who actually made the coffee). A trip highlight.
Then off to Caernarfon Castle - one of the finest castles in the UK  - and it was. Clambered around battlements for a while and then headed westwards out of Wales to stay with some friends the English village of Eaton. Wales had proved to be awesome, and it would deal one more great card in two days time.

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    Chris Jones

    This blog is a mixture of experiences, light moments, humour, ponderings and observations. Which pretty much sums up living.

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