On the day we were due to leave Jasper by train (the skeena) we got an email to say that high seas had cancelled our boat out to Queen Charlotte Island. Whilst this was a shame the upside was that if we could wrangle it we could score some extra time on Vancouver Island. After many mad phone calls we managed to shift out booking out of Prince Rupert to Port Hardy (on Vancouver Island).
So, off we headed on the train, a hopeful that all the elements for the trip would fall in place (we had to change car bookings, grizzlie watching bookings, accommodation bookings and ferry bookings - all of which did work out in the end).
The skeena was a wonderful train trip (saw three more black bears on the train trip). It took two days and we overnighted in Prince George - which proved to be a bit like a cross between Mount George and royalty (and based on the glorious history of european royalty not necessarily a good thing). Prince George was wild, dark and windy when arrived - we had to drag our baggage several blocked through charming downtown PG (but we lived to tell about it). The accommodation and the Ramada Hotel (which was labelled Rama since two of the lights were out) turned out to be actually fine and the dinner in the pub was great as was the service.
Next day we rolled across Canada to Prince Rupert (there seems a fascination with naming things after royalty) and chatted with some really pleasant people on the train. dined that night in PR and then caught the ferry the next day down the Inside Passage (still sounds painful every time I say it).
The Inside Passage really is an amazing journey. Stunning scenery and even saw some porpoises (not dolphins) and a Minke Whale. Arrived at Port Hardy that night in the pouring rain (this was the weather that had cancelled our Queen Charlotte trip). Had a really wonderful seafood dinner (you know they candy salmon? Sounds horrific but actually isn't too bad at all).
So, off we headed on the train, a hopeful that all the elements for the trip would fall in place (we had to change car bookings, grizzlie watching bookings, accommodation bookings and ferry bookings - all of which did work out in the end).
The skeena was a wonderful train trip (saw three more black bears on the train trip). It took two days and we overnighted in Prince George - which proved to be a bit like a cross between Mount George and royalty (and based on the glorious history of european royalty not necessarily a good thing). Prince George was wild, dark and windy when arrived - we had to drag our baggage several blocked through charming downtown PG (but we lived to tell about it). The accommodation and the Ramada Hotel (which was labelled Rama since two of the lights were out) turned out to be actually fine and the dinner in the pub was great as was the service.
Next day we rolled across Canada to Prince Rupert (there seems a fascination with naming things after royalty) and chatted with some really pleasant people on the train. dined that night in PR and then caught the ferry the next day down the Inside Passage (still sounds painful every time I say it).
The Inside Passage really is an amazing journey. Stunning scenery and even saw some porpoises (not dolphins) and a Minke Whale. Arrived at Port Hardy that night in the pouring rain (this was the weather that had cancelled our Queen Charlotte trip). Had a really wonderful seafood dinner (you know they candy salmon? Sounds horrific but actually isn't too bad at all).
The following day (honestly can't remember which day of the week this was - maybe Monday (over here)) we got a hire car and motored down to Campbell River, pretty much in the rain, which cleared by the afternoon. That night we stayed in a floathouse - which is literally a floating house - it was above the office of the company that was taking us to see grizzly bears the next day. Wild and windy night meant it really felt like we were on board again.
We got up to fine weather (which just got better as the day wore on) headed downstair and went on a boat trip to see grizzlies. This was simply awesome. It took a wille to boat over to the inlet and then we went in on one of the rougher roads you're likely to see. We had two indian guides and had to sign all sorts of waivers regarding being mauled by grizzlies bears. Slightly un-nerving. At first we didn't have great viewing so it was decided we walk through the forest down to where to rivers met. We all had to keep eyes open and be prepared to behave appropriately if approached by a grizzly (which turns out not to involve running away screaming - an appealing option that apparently just encourages them - nor should you consider any accidental voiding of the bowels - odours just attract them). Mostly, just try and back away cautiously - which simply doesn't seem to cut the mustard.
Anyway, after a while of staring down a river this bear just appears out of nowhere. It was a female and she'd been lying down behind a log. Next thing you know a cub appears. They wander around for a while being quite photogenic and then the mother decides to swim over to our side of the river. Ok - remember no running or bowel movements. We quietly climb up into a tower - the efficacy of which had been greatly diminished by the flood water that had been through. It had been spun around so that the stairs were actually pointed towards the bear playground and it had been tilted on its side so that one end was within easy bear-reach of the ground.
Of course, nothing dramatic happened other that the bear ending up quite close by. Then ensued a rather amusing episode with the cub. He was not amused at all that mother had swum across this strongly flowing creek/river. He howled and howled for about 5 minutes and then you could see him make up his mind. He barrelled straight into the creek and there followed a rather nervous minute when we watched him almost swept downstream before he clambered ashore. Then he literally bolted after his mother - running right past us (probably on a few feet away at most).
The whole grizzly thing was just fantastic. After these two bears we wandered around and saw two bull grizzlies - seriously big suckers and another mother with two cubs.
We got up to fine weather (which just got better as the day wore on) headed downstair and went on a boat trip to see grizzlies. This was simply awesome. It took a wille to boat over to the inlet and then we went in on one of the rougher roads you're likely to see. We had two indian guides and had to sign all sorts of waivers regarding being mauled by grizzlies bears. Slightly un-nerving. At first we didn't have great viewing so it was decided we walk through the forest down to where to rivers met. We all had to keep eyes open and be prepared to behave appropriately if approached by a grizzly (which turns out not to involve running away screaming - an appealing option that apparently just encourages them - nor should you consider any accidental voiding of the bowels - odours just attract them). Mostly, just try and back away cautiously - which simply doesn't seem to cut the mustard.
Anyway, after a while of staring down a river this bear just appears out of nowhere. It was a female and she'd been lying down behind a log. Next thing you know a cub appears. They wander around for a while being quite photogenic and then the mother decides to swim over to our side of the river. Ok - remember no running or bowel movements. We quietly climb up into a tower - the efficacy of which had been greatly diminished by the flood water that had been through. It had been spun around so that the stairs were actually pointed towards the bear playground and it had been tilted on its side so that one end was within easy bear-reach of the ground.
Of course, nothing dramatic happened other that the bear ending up quite close by. Then ensued a rather amusing episode with the cub. He was not amused at all that mother had swum across this strongly flowing creek/river. He howled and howled for about 5 minutes and then you could see him make up his mind. He barrelled straight into the creek and there followed a rather nervous minute when we watched him almost swept downstream before he clambered ashore. Then he literally bolted after his mother - running right past us (probably on a few feet away at most).
The whole grizzly thing was just fantastic. After these two bears we wandered around and saw two bull grizzlies - seriously big suckers and another mother with two cubs.
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